| Sep 22, 2006 @ 10:21 PM |
Car trouble again.
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stormy73
Posts: 1,181
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All day today, whenever I've put my '83 Nissan Sentra(5-speed straight) into neutral to stop at a light or stop sign, the damned thing would stall. I changed the fuel filter this afternoon, but that didn't help. Last year, I had a very smiliar problem, but when it conked out, it wouldn't start back up. THAT turned out to be the fuel pump.
Now, I HAVE been, recently, running my tank to just about empty, which is why I changed the fuel filter today, thinking that it might have trash in it(It didn't.. I cut it open and checked).
Also, the enginie seems to be idling faster than it normal.
I'm wondering if it could be the fuel pump again.
After living through the saddest week of my entire life, I sure as shit don't need car problems, too.
Any help would be appreciated.
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| Sep 22, 2006 @ 10:24 PM |
Car trouble again. |
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spongebob777
Posts: 7,904
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Also, the enginie seems to be idling faster than it normal
I think that and the stalling may indicate some kind of a timing issue. Does the engine try to keep running when you turn the key off?
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| Sep 22, 2006 @ 10:32 PM |
Car trouble again.
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definitelydi
Posts: 12,602
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 1983....I was 8 years old.
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| Sep 22, 2006 @ 10:36 PM |
Car trouble again. |
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spongebob777
Posts: 7,904
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1983....I was 8 years old.
Hey baby. You should see my practically new 1984 S15 pickup truck 
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 12:03 AM |
Car trouble again.
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stormy73
Posts: 1,181
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Bob...
yes... it does "diesel" some of the time.
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 12:39 AM |
Car trouble again. |
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1cebit2iceshy
Posts: 152
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Check under the hood for a leaky vacume line. That would cause a fast idle and throw off the timing. Hope this helps.
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 1:34 PM |
Car trouble again.
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grumblebear
Posts: 10,559
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to check for a vacum leak, spray carb spray around the carb... if the engine runs up, it is the leak.... also where you aim the carb spray will help locate the line...
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 2:24 PM |
Car trouble again. |
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stormy73
Posts: 1,181
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Well, my mechanic just listened to the engine today, and he thinks that it's a spark plug that's gone bad... they don't even have 20,000 miles on them yet. I guess I'll buy some tonight, and change them out first thing in the morning.
Grumble... Ironically, I was just getting ready to spray some carb cleaner in the carburetor to see if that helps any, though I doubt that it will.
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 5:08 PM |
Car trouble again.
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uab_5
Posts: 4,759
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1983?
It's earned it's trip to the scrapyard.
Rust In Peace
The only thing I have from 1983 is me...I was 10.
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 8:06 PM |
Car trouble again. |
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Jankia
Posts: 11,892
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If he thinks it might be your spark plug,it might only be the lines that need replacing.I had a similar problem twice,one was a clogged catalytic converter another was a bad coil.
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 8:35 PM |
Car trouble again.
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Silvertongue62
Posts: 6,932
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Are you guys talking about two different cars?
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| Sep 23, 2006 @ 10:03 PM |
Car trouble again. |
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Jankia
Posts: 11,892
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Not sure what you mean Silver.I was just trying to come up with a solution that I had with stalling,hard to restart when hot vehicles.
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 1:06 AM |
Car trouble again.
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Silvertongue62
Posts: 6,932
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The reason I ask is because diesels dont have spark plugs. They work solely on compression. The other thing is if the car is idling high it is not a fuel filter which would make it do the opposite. if the car is a gasoline engine i would first check the ignition control module, check for arcing wires, or vacuum leaks. If the gasoline engine is hard to start as well as stalling at low rpm i would check all of the above and the catalytic converter which would restict the flow of exhaust. keep in mind an engine is nothing more than a large air pump. The more air you get in and out the tail pipe the more power you create. There is also something else yopu may want to check and that is your battery. If the battery has a dead cell or two the alternator may have trouble keeping up at low rpms. A bad fuel pump will not make the car idle up but the opposite. if it is fuel injected you may want to clean your trottle body as well as check injectors. I think there is also an idle control valve on that car. Clean it before replacing it. Now the process of elimination can be costly if you are a parts changer. With more information i can tell you if it is air fuel ignition or electronic.
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 1:19 AM |
Car trouble again. |
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DawolfLover
Posts: 568
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Silver, I think the only reference to diesel was when they mentioned "dieseling" which is the common term for an engine continuing to run for a short time after the ignition is turned off.
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 2:29 AM |
Car trouble again.
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beckyiv42000
Posts: 14,576
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okay gonna sneak in here check for carbon build up under the distributor cap can cause it to jump and stall too *sneaks out*
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 2:35 AM |
Car trouble again. |
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redhairNfreckles
Posts: 4,688
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The more air you get in and out the tail pipe the more power you create
that's why my ex and me had separate rooms.........
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 6:41 AM |
Car trouble again.
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Earl47
Posts: 1,552
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Hey brother, take it easy, first off your mechanic is not a mechanic, because your engine is idling UP!! Not shaking!!! If a person has one bad plug their engine will shake, not idle or rev up!!!
Now listen to me, first off, change out all your plug wires and spark plugs, ITS CHEAP...the reving up and running when shutdown is spark knock caused by bad gasoline or water cpmdensation build up in your fuel tank!! Now, enough said there, brother change your air cleaner!!!! that is cheap too!! Timing causes backfiring, not rev up folks!!! Plus if you let a car run past under a half tank on the methanol or gasohol fuels that are being used now!!! After you get between a quarter of a tank and a half tank, FILL UP!!! That way it prevents condensation buildup problems.
Next step!! Take off your fuel cap, and knock it on the ground a few times, then shake it back and forth in your ear, it should make a rattling sound, what that is for is when a car has lets say a tank of gasoline, once fuel starts being pumped out of that tank for the engine, vacuum would build up so bad, to the point, the fuel pump would simply turn, but couldn't deliver because of fuel tank vacuum buildup, now, copy and paste what i wrote and give this to your mechanic, and tell him to fix it!!! Becky said something smart also, check under your distrubutor to make sure the rotor has not causes buildup on the plug wire post, and make sure no condensation in under the cap, and make sure the rotor is okay, be sure and change your coil wire when you change your plug wires, just do them one at a time, so you won't get your firing order screwed up...Earl
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 7:00 AM |
Car trouble again. |
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beckyiv42000
Posts: 14,576
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yeah Earl was gonna say sumpin about the gas cap too (had that happen b4) kinda like an air lock in the fuel lines when ya are in ahot climate or in a higher elevation ... but didnt want to intrude this seems likea mens thingy here and well usually guys dont listen to women anyways 
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 7:04 AM |
Car trouble again.
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beckyiv42000
Posts: 14,576
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okay one more thing i thought of too.. then ill be gone (maybe i like mysteries too much to promise haha) .. on my neices 85 mustang she had the same thing happenin and well it turned out to be the coil over heating cuase there was no heat shield btwn it and the exhaust manifold ... its would over heat shut down and later after it cooled off ya could run it again... simple fix peice of sheet metal btwn it and the heat source acting like a barrier .. took her taking it to 5 diff mechanics to figure it out tho and well the last one was my ex who looked at me and shook his head like i SHOULDA known better hehe
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| Sep 24, 2006 @ 9:02 AM |
Car trouble again. |
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Always_Striving
Posts: 8,794
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usually guys dont listen to women anyways
Awwwwwwwe
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