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Captain Custis's Travel Journal--August 17 2008

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Aug 18 @ 10:38 PM Captain Custis's Travel Journal--August 17 2008     custis Posts: 1,363 Old Marta Beckett, the eccentric dancing matriarch of Death Valley Junction once said that Amargosa is a state of mind. I am inclined to agree. I am in the little town of Beatty for a third night tonight, and loving it. I may even remain for a fourth night. Once again, as sunset fell, I drove to the point overlooking the great trough of Death Valley. On the way back as I came down out of the mountains and onto the flat of the Amargosa Desert, I pulled my truck over to sit on the tailgate and watch the evening star rise as the sun's fading light turned first gold, then pink, then lavendar over the inky silhouettes of sawtooth mountains. Amargosa sunset and consequent arrival of evenglow is perhaps the most beautiful thing I have ever seen in this life. I uncorked a beer and let the balminess of the cool evening soak into my being as I watched the distant peaks of the Funeral Range, the coyotes providing a soundtrack to the visual with their mournful songs. A tiny bat fluttered about, often so close to me that I could see the color patterns of it's downy fur. A tiny bit of fluffy mammalian warmth swooping around in search of enough insects to fuel the fires of its swiftly beating tiny heart. Amargosa. I shape my lips around the word, looking around me to put the image to the sound. What is Amargosa? It is a vast valley, gold and white in its desert dryness. It is a lovely and lonely place that is home to a surprising menagerie, ranging from old Marta in her ghostly opera house, to painted ladies in pink brothels with flashing red lights.

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Captain Custis's Travel Journal--August 17 2008